I developed this motif based on this rosebud pattern I came across. I previously shared my version of that pattern, Field of Rosebuds.

Rosebud Wreath Motif

Yarn Colors

• A: Wreath Center color: Something that contrasts nicely against your leaf color.
• B: Leaf color. A nice shade of green.
• C: Background color. Something your rosebuds will show up nicely against, like white, black, cream, or even sky blue.
• D: Rosebud color. Red, pink, maroon, gold, or any color you’d like. I think this pattern would be really interesting with a slow striping yarn so the roses gradually change color as you work.
• E: Inner Frame. A darker or lighter shade of your background or outer frame color.
• F: Outer Frame. A deep, dark color that doesn’t detract from your rosebuds.

Yarn

Use your favorite. I used Lion Brand Bon Bons sport weight cotton for this tutorial, resulting in a square approximately 5.5″. I show the results using a lace weight acrylic-wool blend at the end of this tutorial, which resulted in a 3″ square.

The Pattern

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.

With yarn A, chain 6 and join (or use a magic circle if you prefer.

Round 1

Chain 4. [DC into ring, CH 1] 11 times, and join to third CH of starting chain, for a total of 12 DCs and 12 CH 1 spaces.

Round 2

SC 3 into each CH 1 space. Join, and finish off color A.

Round 3

Join color B, either with a SS, CH, SC into the same stitch, or a standing SC as shown here.

Leaf Stitch

SC into the next stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 6 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

SC into the next stitch.

Repeat [SC, leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join and finish off color B.

Round 4

Join color C into any SC immediately before a leaf stitch, with a standing SC or your favorite method.

SC, CH 1. Working behind each leaf stitch (as shown in the following photos): skip leaf stitch, SC into the next stitch. Repeat [SC, CH 1, skip leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join.

Round 5

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC into each SC of the previous row, SC 2 into each CH 1 space. Join. (48 SC)

Round 6

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 2, SC 2 into same space. [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (60 SC)

Round 7

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 3, SC 2 into same space. [SC 4, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (72 SC)

Round 8: Rosebuds

Bring in color D (rosebud color) and “hide” it under your background color stitches. CH 1 and SC into same stitch.

SC, switching to color D by dropping color C and finishing off the stitch with color D.

The Rosebud: DC Spike Popcorn Stitch

The rosebud stitch should be centered right above the CH 1 space from round 3, centered over the leaf. Do a DC spike stitch through the center leaf and the CH 1 space: yarn over, insert hook through center leaf (the CH 6 loop), insert the hook through the CH 1 space above the leaf stitch, hook the yarn from the back, and pull it through the space and the leaf, as shown here. Make sure to hide yarn C (background color) under your stitches.

Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through the second two loops on the hook. Make sure you haven’t pulled the “spike” too tightly or your work will buckle.

Repeat the DC spike four more times, through the same leaf and space. Remove your hook and insert it (from the front) through the top of the first DC spike stitch, then through the loop.

Drop color D. Yarn over color C and pull it through all the loops on the hook. Snug up the stitch to close the popcorn stitch.

Skip the SC directly below the popcorn stitch. [SC into the next 5 stitches, rosebud (popcorn DC spike stitch)] 11 times. SC in the last four stitches and join. Finish off color D.

Round 9

The beginning of the round should start a the stitch just before the top of a rosebud. If it doesn’t slipstitch over to that point. CH2, skip the stitch at the top of the rosebud, SC into the stitch just after the rosebud. CH 4, skip 3, [SC, CH 1, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 11 times. Join to first stitch.

Round 10

SS into CH 1 space. CH 1, SC into same space. DC 5 into CH 4 space. [SC into CH 1 SP, DC 5 into CH 4 SP] 11 times. Finish off color C.

At this point, you have a nice round motif. You can stop here, use this as the center of a round doily or mandala, or continue on to Round 11 to square up the motif into a block.

Round 11

With color E, start the first stitch with either a CH 3 or a standing DC in any SC: [DC, CH 3, BPSC around third/center DC of the next fan, CH 3] 12 times around.

Round 12

CH 1. [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join and finish off color E.

Round 13

Join color F with a standing SC into any SC of the previous row. Work an SC into each SC, an HDC into each HDC, a DC into each DC, and TR 5 into each CH 2 corner space, Join.

Round 14

CH 3. DC into each stitch of previous row, working TR 5 into the third TR of each corner. Join and finish.

Example Motif in Lace Weight Wool Blend

With the right yarn and color scheme, this block can be quite elegant. Here I’ve chosen muted colors matching a scarf project I’m working on, with neutral beige, taupe, and very dark burgundy background and framing colors to let the gorgeous wine and moss green roses stand out.

The Pattern in Compact Form

Stitches

• LS (Leaf Stitch): SC, CH 4, SC into same stitch, CH 6, SC into same stitch, CH 4, SC into same stitch
• RB (Rosebud): DC spike stitch 5 times into the chain space three rows below (the one above the leaf stitch). Remove hook, insert through the loops of the first DC, then through the last loop, yarn over with color C, and snug up the rosebud. This stitch is basically a popcorn stitch with double crochet spike stitches.

The Pattern

This pattern assumes you know how to start a new row, either with the appropriate number of chain stitches (e.g., CH 3 as a DC) or standing stitches, and count those starting stitches appropriately.

With color A, CH 6 and join to make a loop, or start with a magic ring if you prefer.

• R1: Color A. [DC, CH] 12 times into ring. Join. (24: 12 DC, 12 CHSP)
• R2: [SC 3 into CHSP] 12 times. Join. Finish color A. (36)
• R3: Join color B into first SC in any CH3SP.  [SC, LS, SC] 12 times. Join. Finish color B. (24 SC, 12 LS)
• R4: Join color C into any SC immediately before a LS. [SC, CH, skip LS, SC] 12 times. Join. (26: 24 SC, 12 CHSP).
• R5: SC into each SC, and SC 2 into each CHSP of previous row. Join. (48)
• R6: [SC 2, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (60)
• R7: [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (72)
• R8: Bring in color D and “hide” it under stitches of color C. With color C, SC. [Color D, RB. Color B: SC 5] 12 times, leaving off the last SC. Join. Finish color D. (72: 60 SC, 12 RB)
• R9: SS to get to stitch just before the top of the RB stitch. [SC, CH, skip over RB, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 12 times. Join. (84: 24 SC, 12 CH1SP, 12 CH4SP)
• R10: SS into CH1SP. [SC into CH1SP, DC 5 into CH4SP] 12 times. Join. Finish color C.
• R11: Join color E into any SC. [DC into SC, CH 3, BPSC around third DC, CH 3, skip 2 DC] 12 times. Join.
• R13: [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join. Finish color E.
• R14: Join color F into any SC of previous row. SC into each SC, HDC into each HDC, DC into each DC, TR 5 into each CH2SP. Join.
• R15: DC into each stitch of previous row, with TR 5 into third TR in each corner.

Resources

• Free Field of Rosebuds Pattern
• Original Rosebuds Stitch and Pattern
• My Lace Weight Crochet Scarf Project on Pinterest

A Field of Rosebuds

Yarn Colors

• A: Background color. Something your rosebuds will show up nicely against, like white, black, cream, or even sky blue.
• B: Leaf color. A nice shade of green.
• C: Rosebud color. Red, pink, maroon, gold, or any color you’d like. I think this pattern would be really interesting with a slow striping yarn so the roses gradually change color as you work.

Yarn

Use your favorite. I used Lion Brand Bon Bons sport weight cotton for this tutorial. I show the results using a lace weight acrylic-wool blend at the end of this tutorial.

The Pattern

Start with a base row that has a multiple of ten stitches. Mine, shown here, is three rows of single crochet.

We’re going to start with one row of single crochet and the leaf stitches in color B.  Hold the last stitch with a stitch marker so you can pick this color up again. Don’t turn your work. Start so the last stitch and yarn are off to the left (for righties) and the right side of the work is facing you.

Row 1: Leaves

Start with a standing single crochet in the first stitch. Single crochet into the next three stitches.

Leaf stitch: Now it’s time for the leaf stitch. Single crochet into the next (fifth) stitch and chain 4.

Single crochet into the same stitch. This will turn the CH 4 into a loop.

Chain 6 and single crochet into the same stitch.

Chain 4 and single crochet into the same stitch. The leaf stitch is completed.

Single crochet into the next 9 stitches. Put a leaf stitch into the 10th stitch. Repeat [8 SC, 1 leaf stitch] until you are five stitches from the end of the row.

Single crochet into the next five stitches. On the last stitch, finish the stitch with color A (your background color). Cut off yarn color B and weave in the tail.

Row 2: Background

Chain 1 and turn (the wrong side of the work is now facing you). Single crochet into the next five stitches. The last stitch will be in the last SC before the leaf stitch.

Chain 1, skip over the leaf stitch and single crochet into the first stitch after the leaf, working in front of the leaf and pushing it towards the front of the work. [Single crochet into the next 8 stitches, chain one, skip the leaf stitch, single crochet into next stitch] until you reach the end of your leaves. Single crochet to the end (which should be five more stitches) and turn.

Single crochet across, putting one single crochet stitch into the CH1 spaces above the leaves.

Rows 3 & 4: Background

Add two more rows of single crochet.

Row 5: Rosebuds

Chain 1 and turn. Single crochet into the first four stitches. Finish the fourth stitch with color C (the rosebud color).

Rosebud Stitch: Double crochet spike stitch through the center CH 6 leaf and the CH 1 space above the leaf. The photos show where to insert the hook through the leaf and CH 1 space. Make sure to catch the loose color A yarn inside the stitch to hide it.

Double crochet spike stitch five more times into the same place (through the leaf and CH 1 space above the leaf) for a total of five stitches..

Pull your hook out. Insert it through the loops of the first stitch and through the loop of yarn from the last stitch.

Pull the loop through the first stitch loops to close the rosebud. Make sure the rosebud bulges out away from the fabric.

Chain 1. Drop yarn C and chain 1 with color A.

Single crochet into the next stitch, making sure to catch the loose color C under the stitch to hide it. The next stitch may be crowded under the rosebud. Push the rosebud out of the way to make sure you find the correct stitch.

[Single crochet into the next 7 stitches, finishing trapping color C under the stitches. Single crochet into the 8th stitch, joining in color C by dropping color A after pulling it through and finishing the last stitch with color C. Rosebud stitch into the leaf and space as before, switching back to color A. Put a single crochet into the next stitch.]Repeat until you have added a rosebud to each leaf. You should have five stitches left in the row. Single crochet to the end.

Row 6: Background

Chain 1 and turn. Single crochet into the first five stitches. Single crochet into the top of the rosebud cluster. Repeat [single crochet into the next 9 stitches, single crochet into the top of the next rosebud cluster] to the last rosebud. Single crochet to the end (four more stitches).

Row 7: Background

Add one more row of single crochet. Secure yarn A with a stitch marker.

Row 8: Leaves

Join color B with a standing single crochet. Single crochet into the next 8 stitches, for a total of 9 single crochets. Leaf stitch into the 10th stitch.

Repeat [single crochet 9, leaf stitch 1] until you have 10 stitches left in the row. Single crochet to the end, finishing the last stitch with color A to join. As before, cut color B and weave in the tail. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 9: Background

Single crochet 10. Repeat [chain 1, skip 1, single crochet 9] to last leaf. Single crochet to end (9 more stitches).

Rows 10 & 11: Background

Single crochet two more rows.

Row 12: Rosebuds

Repeat [single crochet 9 in color A, rosebud stitch 1 in color C] until you have added a rosebud to each leaf cluster. Single crochet to the end (10 more stitches). As you alternate between colors A and C, remember to catch the yarn you aren’t using under the stitches as you work across to hide it. Cut off yarn C.

Rows 13 & 14: Background

Add two more rows of single crochet.

Repeat rows 1 through 14 to add more rows of rosebuds.

Examples

Here is the piece I made for this demo alongside two “field of rosebuds” pieces done in a lace weight acrylic-wool blend. Because the lace weight yarn is so fine, I ended up doing each rosebud with seven DC spike stitches instead of five like I did with the cotton.

The Pattern in Compact Form

LC (leaf cluster): 1 SC, 4 CH, 1 SC, 6 CH, 1 SC, 4 CH, 1SC into same stitch.

RBC (rosebud cluster): 5 spike DC through CH 6 of leaf and CH 1 space above leaf. 1 CH. Switch to background color and 1 CH.

• R1: In color B with right side facing, 4 SC. Repeat [1 LC, 9 SC] to the sixth stitch from the end of the row. 4 SC. 1 SC in last stitch, finishing with color A to join. 1 CH, turn. Break off color B.
• R2: 5 SC. Repeat [1 CH, skip LC, 9 SC] to end of leaf clusters, working in front of clusters. 4 SC, 1 CH, turn.
• R3: 1 SC in each stitch (or chain space), 1 CH, turn.
• R4: 1 SC in each stitch, 1 CH, turn.
• R5: 4 SC, joining color C into last stitch. Repeat [1 RBC in color C, 9 SC in color A] for each leaf cluster. 5 SC, 1 CH, turn. Break off color C.
• R6: 1 SC in each stitch (or top of RBC), 1 CH, turn.
• R7: 1 SC in each stitch. Secure with stitch marker. Do not turn.
• R8: With right side facing, join color B. Repeat [9 SC, 1 LC] to the 11th stitch from the end of the row. 10 SC, joining in color A on last stitch. 1 CH, turn.
• R9: 10 SC. Repeat [1 CH, skip LC, 9 SC] to end of leaf clusters. 9 SC, 1 CH, turn.
• R10: 1 SC in each stitch, 1 CH, turn.
• R11: 1 SC in each stitch, 1 CH, turn.
• R12: 9 SC, joining color C into last stitch. Repeat [1 RBC in color C, 9 SC in color A] for each leaf cluster. 10 SC, 1 CH, turn. Break off color C.
• R13: 1 SC in each stitch, 1 CH, turn.
• R14: 1 SC in each stitch, 1 CH, turn.

Repeat R1 – R7 or R1 – R14 to desired number of rows. If breaking off yarn A to finish work, skip the last “1 CH, turn” and tie off work.

This is the first in a series of crocheted baskets inspired by Navajo rug designs and colors. The texture of the Red Heart Super Saver aran weight yarn I’d purchased for a different crocheted basket project reminded me a bit of the texture of the Navajos’ woven wool rugs. I realized when I finished the first brightly colored “Bodega Basket” that I really wanted baskets that match my earthy, Southwestern-tinged décor (which prominently features a Navajo storm pattern rug).

This basket was inspired by “eye dazzler” designs, which are generally very “busy” in a controlled manner, featuring dense zigzag lines, triangles/diamonds, and jagged outlines. The rug shown above was one of several I looked at for inspiration for this design. There are other several eye dazzler rugs pinned on my Pinterest Navajo Rugs board.

If you enjoy this pattern, please consider a small donation through Paypal.

Materials and Techniques

This project uses Red Heart Super Saver Economy yarn, which is a heavy worsted, aran weight acrylic yarn. It has a nice “wooly” feel to it, is easy to work with, and results in a fairly clean design. These colors were chosen because they are close to the core traditional colors used by most Navajo weavers. There are alternative recommendations listed at the end of this tutorial.

• A: Grey Heather (0400)
• B: Ranch Red (0332)
• C: Warm Brown (0336)
• D: Black (0312)
• E: Aran (0313)
• 5.0mm crochet hook (or as needed to obtain gauge of a 4″ diameter for a seven row circle of single crochet)
• Tapestry needle

The stitches and techniques you will use for this project include:

• Single crochet stitch
• Spike stitch
• Surface crochet
• Crochet in the round

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terminology.

Gauge and Size

A circle of seven single crochet rows should be about 4″, but the gauge is not critical. Tighter stitches will make your basket sturdier. When I stitch tightly, my seven row circle is generally around 3.5″ to 3.75″.

This pattern will yield a basket between 6″ and 7″ in diameter. Later in this post I will discuss making larger (or smaller!) baskets from this pattern.

Pattern

Rows 1 – 7

Row 1: With color A (Grey Heather) make a magic circle. Chain one and stitch eight single crochet into the magic circle, and join to the first stitch.

Rows 2 – 7: Crochet in the round, increasing each row by eight stitches:

• Row 2: 2 single crochets in each stitch (16 stitches)
• Row 3:2 single crochets in every other stitch, i.e., SC 1, SC 2 in same stitch, repeat to end  (24 stitches)
• Row 4: 2 single crochets in every third stitch  (32 stitches)
• Row 5: 2 single crochets in every fourth stitch  (40 stitches)
• Row 6: 2 single crochets in every fifth stitch  (48 stitches)
• Row 7: 2 single crochets in every sixth stitch  (56 stitches)

A note on joining and starting a new row: I find the technique of chain one, single crochet into the joining stitch, skip the last stitch, and join to the first stitch (not the chain) makes a much smoother seam. Repeat Crafter Me has a nice photo of this technique.

When you finish the seventh row, check the gauge.

Rows 8 – 9

Continue crocheting in the round, increasing each row by eight stitches.

• Row 8: 2 single crochets in every seventh stitch  (64 stitches)
• Row 9: 2 single crochets in every eighth stitch  (72 stitches)

If you haven’t been counting your stitches, count them carefully now to make sure you have 72 stitches. The pattern is not very forgiving of missed or extra stitches. If necessary, increase or reduce over the next couple rows to get the right number.

Row 10

Working in the back loop, put one single crochet in each stitch. This row starts the basket wall, so no more stitch increases. Working in the back loop helps “fold” the fabric upwards and makes a nice raised line.

Rows 11 – 13

Work three more rows of single crochet. We’re getting ready to do a yarn color change, but first let me show you how I handle color changes for this project.

Color Change

I hate knots. This is my method of performing a color change.

While working the last stitch in the row, drop the yarn when there are still two loops on the hook. Hook the new color.

Pull the new color through the loops to finish the stitch.

Continue, joining to the first stitch of the row.

Chain one and continue stitching with the new color.

Rows 14 – 16

End (tie off) color A and join color B using the method shown above or your favorite method. In color B (Ranch Red) work three rows of single crochet.

End (tie off) color B and join color C (Warm Brown) using your favorite method.

Row 17: The Spike Stitch

The spike stitch is a single crochet that works through previous rows instead of the loops of the last row. For this pattern, after joining in color C (Warm Brown), single crochet in the first stitch. In the second stitch, we’ll spike stitch into one row down.

Insert the hook between the last row and the second row down, below the next stitch.

Yarn over.

Pull the yarn through.

Bring the second loop up level with the first. Be careful not to make it too tight or it will pull the fabric.

Yarn over and pull through the loops, just like a normal single crochet stitch.

For the next few stitches, finish the down-pointing triangle spike stitch pattern:

• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the third and fourth rows down (between the Ranch Red and Grey Heather).
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the last and second row down.

Finally, single crochet into the next stitch to start the next repeat of the pattern.

Continue around, repeating the single crochet, spike stitch one row, spike stitch two rows, spike stitch three rows, spike stitch two rows, spike stitch one row pattern for a total of twelve repeats of the pattern.

Tip: Tightening Spike Stitches

The challenge with the spike stitch is to get it tight enough without making it so tight it pulls the fabric and distorts the pattern. Here’s my method.

After pulling the yarn through, hold the hook so it’s in line with both loops, as close to where the loops are as possible.

Pull the yarn from behind, tightening both loops to the desired tension.

Carefully swivel the hook up, keeping it close to the first loop while pulling the second loop up, allowing the yarn to slide freely.

Finish the stitch. Chances are, your spike stitch row may still be somewhat loose. Make up for it by maintaining your normal tension during the subsequent single crochet rows above it, which will help tighten things up and help maintain the straight walls of the basket. In the long run, the spike stitches add thickness, helping make your basket walls sturdier. Later, you can take a tapestry needle and nudge any crossed spike stitches (like seen in the photo below) into place so they’re nice and pointy.

Rows 18 – 20

Do three more rows of single crochet, maintaining your normal tension to tighten things back up if your spike stitch row was a bit loose. Tie off color C (Warm Brown) and join in color D (Black) using your favorite method.

Row 21

Repeat the spike stitch triangle pattern, starting in the middle of the sequence with the spike stitch three rows down:

• Spike stitch through the third and fourth rows down (between the Warm Brown and Ranch Red).
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the last and second row down.
• Single crochet.
• Spike stitch through the last and second row down.
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Repeat, for a total of twelve spike stitched triangles.

Because crochet in the round tends to lean to the right (if you’re right-handed), placement of these stitches relative to the previous spike stitch row is important to making the pattern look well centered and even. I’ll attempt to illustrate it here, using a different set of colors that show up more nicely in photos than the Black yarn we are currently using in the pattern.

Make sure the longest stitch is lined up to be put through the left side of the single crochet in the previous spike stitch row. When you get to the single crochet, it should line up with the left side of the longest spike stitch in the previous spike stitch row.

Rows 22 – 24

Do three rows of single crochet, making sure to maintain the 72 stitch count. Tie off color D (Black) and join in color E (Aran) using your favorite method.

Row 25

Repeat the spike stitch triangle sequence, starting with the single crochet.

• Single crochet into the joining stitch.
• Spike stitch through the last row and second row down.
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the third and fourth rows down (between the Warm Brown and Black).
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the last row and second row down.
• Repeat for a total of twelve triangles.

Rows 26 – 28

Do three rows of single crochet, making sure to maintain the 72 stitch count. Tie off color E (Aran) and join in color B (Ranch Red) using your favorite method.

Row 29

Repeat the spike stitch triangle sequence, starting with the longest stitch.

• Spike stitch through the third and fourth rows down (between the Warm Brown and Black).
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Spike stitch through the last row and second row down.
• Single crochet.
• Spike stitch through the last row and second row down.
• Spike stitch through the second and third rows down.
• Repeat for a total of twelve triangles.

Rows 30

Do one rows of single crochet, making sure to maintain the 72 stitch count. Tie off color B (Ranch Red) and join in color A (Grey Heather) using your favorite method.

Rows 31 – 35: Option 1 – Straight Edged Basket (No Handles)

Do five rows of single crochet. Tie off. Weave in any loose ends.

Rows 31 – 35: Option 2 – Basket with Handles

Row 31: One row of single crochet.

Row 32: Single crochet into the next 13 stitches. Chain 12. Skip 10 stitches. Single crochet into the next 26 stitches. Chain 12. Skip 10. Single crochet to the end.

Row 33: Single crochet into each single crochet stitch in the previous row. When you reach the chain, put 14 single crochet stitches into the chain space. Instead of stitching through the chain, put your hook through under the chain, pull the yarn through, and complete the stitch.

Rows 34 – 35: Do two rows of single crochet. Tie off. Weave in any loose ends.

Adding Detail with Surface Crochet

Using color D (Black), surface crochet between the rows of colors A and B near the bottom of the bowl (between rows 13 and 14). The following describes how to surface crochet.

Surface Crochet

Insert your hook between the stitches of the rows where you are going to start your surface crochet. Pull the yarn through from back to front. Keep hold of the yarn and loose end on the back so you have a loop in the front.

Insert your hook between the next stitches (one stitch to the left between the same rows).

Pull the yarn through to the front.

Pull the new loop through the first loop.

Continue, moving along one stitch to the left, pulling the yarn through the fabric and previous loop.

When you get to the very last surface crochet stitch, cut the yarn so you have a few inches to work with.

Pull the loop yarn through and thread your tapestry needle

Insert your needle behind the loops of the first stitch.

Pull the yarn through and insert the needle into the same spot where the last stitch came through the fabric.

Snug up the stitch to the desired tension. Tie the ends of the yarn together in the back using a secure knot (like a square knot) and weave in the ends.

Voila!

First line of finished surface crochet at the bottom of the diamond design band.

Next, using color C (Warm Brown), surface crochet between the last row of color B (Ranch Red) and the first row of color A (Grey Heather) near the top of the basket (between rows 30 and 31).

The second line of surface crochet at the top of the diamond design band is complete.

Finally, working in the back loop only, surface crochet along the top edge of the basket with color D (Black).

The result of working the back loop for this line of surface crochet is that it leaves a nice line of color A (Grey Heather) just below the surface crochet line of color D (Black).

Congratulations! All done!

Optional Embellishment

As I was working row 32 (the one with the two chain 12-skip 10 sections for the handle), I made a two-stitch buttonhole (chain 2, skip 2) a few stitches from the handle so I could attach a removable decoration. I made a tassel with a couple buttons, some buckskin lace, crochet thread, beads, and feathers.

Here’s the interior button that holds the tassel to the basket.

Here’s a close-up of the tassel.  There’s a knot in the buckskin and crochet thread between the interior button (right) and the pretty antler exterior button (left).

Here’s the buttonhole.

I wanted a basket going out on the porch with small crochet project and a few necessities. I toss my folding scissors, stitch markers, a couple small skeins of yarn, and a snack in the basket, stick whatever hooks and needles I need through the fabric, and I’m ready to go. The handles make it easy to grab it in one hand while juggling a cup of coffee, my tablet, and whatever else I’m taking out with me. If I have a bigger project bag, I just drop this on top and head out to the porch.

The tassel is made up of wood beads, dyed magnesite (fake turquoise), silver-toned beads, and pheasant feathers. I chose the silver and turquoise theme because the Navajo are as famous for their silverwork as they are for their rugs.

Yarn Colors

Here are a few of my recommendations for other nice Red Heart Super Saver Economy yarn colors for your basket palette. However, there are no rules! Navajo rugs can be quite colorful, and even in historic times, weavers used Anglo yarns in addition to their own wool yarns, which are either the natural color of the wool or dyed using local native plant dyes.

• Aran Fleck (4313)
• Buff Fleck (4334)
• Cafe Latte (0360)
• Carrot (0256)
• Real Teal (0656)
• Gold (0321)

Making a Bigger (or Smaller) Basket

This pattern make a basket between 6″ and 7″ in diameter, and between 5″ and 6″ tall.

To make the basket taller, you can add rows of color A (Grey Heather) to the basket walls below and above the diamond pattern band. You can also add more rows to the diamond pattern band itself. Just add two more rows of color B (Ranch Red) before tying off, tie in a new color, and repeat the four row sequence (one row of alternating spike stitch triangles and three single crochet rows). The final repeat of this sequence should only have one row of single crochet above the spike stitch row.

To make the basket shorter, just leave out one or two of the four row triangle sequences

The triangle pattern repeats every six stitches. To make your basket wider or narrower, make sure the number of stitches in the last row of the bottom is evenly divisible by six. Thus, starting with eight single crochet in the first row, crochet in the round (increasing each row by eight stitches) to:

• row 3 (24 stitches)
• row 6 (48 stitches)
• row 9 (72 stitches)
• row 12 (96 stitches)
• row 15 (120 stitches)
• row 18 (144 stitches)
• row 21 (168 stitches)
• etc.

before going to one single crochet per stitch for the basket walls. I have a one foot wide, six inch tall basket that works nicely to contain several skeins of yarn on my coffee table.

Other Ideas

• For an even more “eye dazzling” basket, work the spike stitch rows in a different color than the two bands of single crochet it’s sandwiched between. This will make the upper and lower halves of the diamonds stand out as distinct.. See the photo of the Navajo rug – some of the diamonds are worked in two completely different colors, while others are worked in two shades of the same color.
• Crocheting two basket bottoms and stitching them together with batting or something stiff (like a whipped cream tub lid), then crocheting the basket walls to this reinforced bottom would make a pretty sturdy basket.
• A larger, taller basket might make a nice tote bag or purse, with or without the bottom reinforced like above. A row of DC 4 – chain 2 a few rows from the top could be added for pulling a drawstring through to tie the top.
• A wide, shallow basket (twice as wide, same height as this pattern) would make a nice fruit basket for the kitchen counter. The acrylic yarn is very washable.
• Add a batting padded bottom (as above) to a wide, shallow basket (twice as wide, same height as this pattern) would make a lovely bed for a cat or small dog. A plain crocheted interior wall could be stitched in a padded to make padded sides for your pet.

The Pattern in Compact Form

Notes

• Beginning/End Rows: Chain 1 and put first stitch in joining stitch, skip last stitch of row.
• ssc# (spike single crochet to row # below): ssc1 – spike stitch through first row below; ssc2 – spike stitch through second row below; etc. See photo tutorial for proper placement of spike stitches relative to the rows and columns of the pattern.

Pattern

• R1: With color A (Grey Heather), make a magic circle. 8 sc into circle. Join. (8 sc)
• R2: [sc 1, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (16 sc)
• R3: [sc 2, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (24 sc)
• R4: [sc 3, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (32 sc)
• R5: [sc 4, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (40 sc)
• R6: [sc 5, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (48 sc)
• R7: [sc 6, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (56 sc)
• R8: [sc 7, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (64 sc)
• R9: [sc 8, sc 2 into next stitch] around and join. (72 sc)
• R10: BLO sc 1 around and join (72 sc)
• R11: sc 1 around and join
• R12: sc 1 around and join
• R13: sc 1 around and join. Tie off and join color B (Ranch Red).
• R14: sc 1 around and join.
• R15: sc 1 around and join.
• R16: sc 1 around. Tie off color B and join color C (Warm Brown).
• R17: [sc, ssc1, ssc2, ssc3, ssc2, ssc1] twelve times and join.
• R18: sc 1 around and join.
• R19: sc 1 around and join.
• R20: sc 1 around. Tie off color C and join color D (Black).
• R21: [ssc3, ssc2, ssc1, sc, ssc1, ssc2] twelve times and join.
• R22: sc 1 around and join.
• R23: sc 1 around and join.
• R24: sc 1 around. Tie off color D and join color E (Aran).
• R25: [sc, ssc1, ssc2, ssc3, ssc2, ssc1] twelve times and join.
• R26: sc 1 around and join.
• R27: sc 1 around and join.
• R28: sc 1 around. Tie off color E and join color B (Ranch Red).
• R29: [ssc3, ssc2, ssc1, sc, ssc1, ssc2] twelve times and join.
• R30: sc 1 around. Tie off color B and join color A (Grey Heather).
• R31: sc 1 around and join. (72 sc)
• R32: sc 13, ch 12, skip 10, sc 26, ch 12, skip 10, sc 13 (to end), and join. (76 stitches: 52 sc, 24 ch)
• R33: sc 13, sc 14 into ch sp, sc 26, sc 14 into ch sp, sc 13 (to end), and join. (80 sc)
• R34: sc 1 around and join. (80 sc)
• R35: sc 1 around and tie off. (80 sc)
• R36: Color D (Black), ss around between R13 and R14 (i.e., surface crochet between these rows, the bottom of the diamond pattern band).
• R37: Color C (Warm Brown), ss around between R30 and R31 (i.e., surface crochet between these rows, the top of the diamond pattern band).
• R38: Color D (Black), BLO, ss around top of R35 (i.e., surface crochet in the back loops of the final row of sc, the top edge of basket).

More…

• Download (PDF)
• See this pattern on Ravelry

Eye Dazzler Basket Crochet Pattern by Deborah Lee Soltesz is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
Based on a work at http://www.deborah.ws/arts-crafts/how-to/free-pattern-eye-dazzler-basket/.

I’ve attempted to recreate the pattern in U.S. terms. It’s not perfect, the stem-end corner and back-loop ridging both need some work. For this how-to, I a Lion Brand BonBon cotton fingering weight yarn. For projects, I’m using Aunt Lydia’s size 20 crochet thread.
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Chain 18

DC into the 7th chain from your hook

Chain 2, skip 2, DC into third stich. Repeat once.

Chain 2, skip 2, HDC into third stich

Chain 2, slip stitch into end.

Chain 2, turn. SC 3 into space.

Continue SC 3 into each space until you reach the end space.

SC 9 around the end.

Continue SC 3 into each space down the other side until reaching the last space. In the last space, SC 3, HDC, DC, HDC. Join to first SC with a slip stitch.

Another view of the HDC-DC-HDC at the “pointy” end of the leave, which will become the stem end.

Chain 2

Working in the back loops, SC in each stitch until just above the first DC stitch on the left.

CH 2, turn. Continuing to work in the back loops (the ones now closest to you since you’ve turned the piece over) SC into each stitch until reaching the corner.

Here, my pattern goes haywire (I’ll update when I figure it out). I tried to turn the corner by putting three stitches (HDC-DC-HDC) but my corners end up too knotty and tight. Instead, I believe it may be better to SC 2 into the previous stitch, HDC-DC-HDC into the corner stitch, 2 SC into next stitch, then continue with SCs in each stitch down the other side. It’s not clear in the original pattern – she’s either adding extra stitches or putting extra chain stitches in between stitches.

Continue SC (into back loops) to just above the last DC. CH 2 and turn.

Working in the back loops (now farthest from you), SC into each stitch.

Turn the corner at the stem end with 2 SC, HDC-DC-HDC, 2 SC into the three stitches at the corner (or whatever you deem the best technique).

Continue SC until just above the 2nd DC from the end (three stitches from the end). CH 2, turn. Continue SC around, turning the corner with the SC2-HDC-DC-HDC-SC2 sequence.

Continue to just above the 2nd DC from the end (3 stitches from the end). CH 2, turn, and continue SC to stem end, working in back loops as before.

At the stem end, slip stitch into corner (instead of doing the turn-the-corner sequence). Either tie off or chain a stem.

Here’s my finished piece. You could continue adding rows to make a longer leaf.

I added a stem by chaining 6, then slip stitching back along the chain (skipping the first stitch), and tying off at the base of the stem.

Here are a pair of leaves I worked in Aunt Lydia’s size 20 crochet thread. These are practice pieces, but I intend to make a pair of earrings, possibly with beads along the center or at the tips of the leaves.

I used yarns from my stock of Lion Brand BonBons Beach and Nature collections. These are cotton sport weight yarns that make a nice tight, clean design.

Row 1: Magic circle, ch3,  15dc into the ring. Slip stitch to join to first stitch and tie off.

The initial chain 3 counts as a double crochet stitch, giving you a total of 16 double crochet stitches in the first row.

Row 2: Join in new color. Ch3, sc1, ch1. Repeat sc1, ch1 around the ring. Slip stitch into the second chain in the initial ch3. Tie off.

The initial chain 3 counts as the first  single crochet plus chain. Each chain 1 makes a space between the single crochet stitches. Slip stitching into the second chain of the initial chain 3 leaves the space between the initial chain and the first single crochet stitch. There are a total of 16 single crochet stitches and 16 chain spaces in the second row.

Row 3: Join new color into any of the chain spaces in the previous row. Ch4, sc1 into next space, ch2, sc1 into next space. Repeat ch2 sc1 around. Slip stitch into second chain of initial ch4. Tie off.

The initial chain 4 counts as the first  single crochet plus chain 2. Each chain 2 makes a space between the single crochet stitches. Slip stitching into the second chain of the initial chain 4 leaves the chain 2 space between the initial chain and the first single crochet stitch. There are a total of 16 single crochet stitches and 16 chain spaces in the second row.

Row 4 (petals): Join in new color in any chain space in the previous row. Ch3, dc4 into same space, single crochet into next space. Repeat dc5 into a space, sc into a space around. Slip stitch to join and tie off.

The first chain 3 counts as a double crochet stitch. You should have 8 dc5 petals with a single crochet stitch between each one.

Embroidery: Crochet embroider in a contrasting color between rows one and two. Crochet embroider in another contrasting color along the top of the petals, just below the top of the stitch (so the chain-like part of the stitching is still visible).

On the petals, make sure to dip the embroidery deep in between the petals to make them stand out from each other. See this surface crochet embroidery tutorial.

Row 5 (optional): Join in a new color in the middle dc stitch in any dc5 petal. Ch2, hdc1, dc1, tr1, dc1, hdc1. Sc3 into same stitch (top of next petal). Continue hdc1, dc1, tr1, dc1, hdc1, sc3 around. Sc2 into base of initial chain (instead of sc3).

This row will add a background that makes the piece a circle. It’s not a perfect circle, and has a subtle wave to it.

From here, the piece can be continued on into a larger mandala, hat, pot holder, etc., or could be turned into a square using standard squaring and corner turning techniques. My purpose was to make the bottom of a pouch (shown below). From here, I stitched additional rows without increasing to make the straight sides of the pouch. I did the embroidery on row 1, but I did not outline the petals.