I developed this motif based on this rosebud pattern I came across. I previously shared my version of that pattern, Field of Rosebuds.

Rosebud Wreath Motif

Yarn Colors

• A: Wreath Center color: Something that contrasts nicely against your leaf color.
• B: Leaf color. A nice shade of green.
• C: Background color. Something your rosebuds will show up nicely against, like white, black, cream, or even sky blue.
• D: Rosebud color. Red, pink, maroon, gold, or any color you’d like. I think this pattern would be really interesting with a slow striping yarn so the roses gradually change color as you work.
• E: Inner Frame. A darker or lighter shade of your background or outer frame color.
• F: Outer Frame. A deep, dark color that doesn’t detract from your rosebuds.

Yarn

Use your favorite. I used Lion Brand Bon Bons sport weight cotton for this tutorial, resulting in a square approximately 5.5″. I show the results using a lace weight acrylic-wool blend at the end of this tutorial, which resulted in a 3″ square.

The Pattern

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.

With yarn A, chain 6 and join (or use a magic circle if you prefer.

Round 1

Chain 4. [DC into ring, CH 1] 11 times, and join to third CH of starting chain, for a total of 12 DCs and 12 CH 1 spaces.

Round 2

SC 3 into each CH 1 space. Join, and finish off color A.

Round 3

Join color B, either with a SS, CH, SC into the same stitch, or a standing SC as shown here.

Leaf Stitch

SC into the next stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 6 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

SC into the next stitch.

Repeat [SC, leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join and finish off color B.

Round 4

Join color C into any SC immediately before a leaf stitch, with a standing SC or your favorite method.

SC, CH 1. Working behind each leaf stitch (as shown in the following photos): skip leaf stitch, SC into the next stitch. Repeat [SC, CH 1, skip leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join.

Round 5

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC into each SC of the previous row, SC 2 into each CH 1 space. Join. (48 SC)

Round 6

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 2, SC 2 into same space. [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (60 SC)

Round 7

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 3, SC 2 into same space. [SC 4, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (72 SC)

Round 8: Rosebuds

Bring in color D (rosebud color) and “hide” it under your background color stitches. CH 1 and SC into same stitch.

SC, switching to color D by dropping color C and finishing off the stitch with color D.

The Rosebud: DC Spike Popcorn Stitch

The rosebud stitch should be centered right above the CH 1 space from round 3, centered over the leaf. Do a DC spike stitch through the center leaf and the CH 1 space: yarn over, insert hook through center leaf (the CH 6 loop), insert the hook through the CH 1 space above the leaf stitch, hook the yarn from the back, and pull it through the space and the leaf, as shown here. Make sure to hide yarn C (background color) under your stitches.

Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through the second two loops on the hook. Make sure you haven’t pulled the “spike” too tightly or your work will buckle.

Repeat the DC spike four more times, through the same leaf and space. Remove your hook and insert it (from the front) through the top of the first DC spike stitch, then through the loop.

Drop color D. Yarn over color C and pull it through all the loops on the hook. Snug up the stitch to close the popcorn stitch.

Skip the SC directly below the popcorn stitch. [SC into the next 5 stitches, rosebud (popcorn DC spike stitch)] 11 times. SC in the last four stitches and join. Finish off color D.

Round 9

The beginning of the round should start a the stitch just before the top of a rosebud. If it doesn’t slipstitch over to that point. CH2, skip the stitch at the top of the rosebud, SC into the stitch just after the rosebud. CH 4, skip 3, [SC, CH 1, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 11 times. Join to first stitch.

Round 10

SS into CH 1 space. CH 1, SC into same space. DC 5 into CH 4 space. [SC into CH 1 SP, DC 5 into CH 4 SP] 11 times. Finish off color C.

At this point, you have a nice round motif. You can stop here, use this as the center of a round doily or mandala, or continue on to Round 11 to square up the motif into a block.

Round 11

With color E, start the first stitch with either a CH 3 or a standing DC in any SC: [DC, CH 3, BPSC around third/center DC of the next fan, CH 3] 12 times around.

Round 12

CH 1. [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join and finish off color E.

Round 13

Join color F with a standing SC into any SC of the previous row. Work an SC into each SC, an HDC into each HDC, a DC into each DC, and TR 5 into each CH 2 corner space, Join.

Round 14

CH 3. DC into each stitch of previous row, working TR 5 into the third TR of each corner. Join and finish.

Example Motif in Lace Weight Wool Blend

With the right yarn and color scheme, this block can be quite elegant. Here I’ve chosen muted colors matching a scarf project I’m working on, with neutral beige, taupe, and very dark burgundy background and framing colors to let the gorgeous wine and moss green roses stand out.

The Pattern in Compact Form

Stitches

• LS (Leaf Stitch): SC, CH 4, SC into same stitch, CH 6, SC into same stitch, CH 4, SC into same stitch
• RB (Rosebud): DC spike stitch 5 times into the chain space three rows below (the one above the leaf stitch). Remove hook, insert through the loops of the first DC, then through the last loop, yarn over with color C, and snug up the rosebud. This stitch is basically a popcorn stitch with double crochet spike stitches.

The Pattern

This pattern assumes you know how to start a new row, either with the appropriate number of chain stitches (e.g., CH 3 as a DC) or standing stitches, and count those starting stitches appropriately.

With color A, CH 6 and join to make a loop, or start with a magic ring if you prefer.

• R1: Color A. [DC, CH] 12 times into ring. Join. (24: 12 DC, 12 CHSP)
• R2: [SC 3 into CHSP] 12 times. Join. Finish color A. (36)
• R3: Join color B into first SC in any CH3SP.  [SC, LS, SC] 12 times. Join. Finish color B. (24 SC, 12 LS)
• R4: Join color C into any SC immediately before a LS. [SC, CH, skip LS, SC] 12 times. Join. (26: 24 SC, 12 CHSP).
• R5: SC into each SC, and SC 2 into each CHSP of previous row. Join. (48)
• R6: [SC 2, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (60)
• R7: [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (72)
• R8: Bring in color D and “hide” it under stitches of color C. With color C, SC. [Color D, RB. Color B: SC 5] 12 times, leaving off the last SC. Join. Finish color D. (72: 60 SC, 12 RB)
• R9: SS to get to stitch just before the top of the RB stitch. [SC, CH, skip over RB, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 12 times. Join. (84: 24 SC, 12 CH1SP, 12 CH4SP)
• R10: SS into CH1SP. [SC into CH1SP, DC 5 into CH4SP] 12 times. Join. Finish color C.
• R11: Join color E into any SC. [DC into SC, CH 3, BPSC around third DC, CH 3, skip 2 DC] 12 times. Join.
• R13: [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join. Finish color E.
• R14: Join color F into any SC of previous row. SC into each SC, HDC into each HDC, DC into each DC, TR 5 into each CH2SP. Join.
• R15: DC into each stitch of previous row, with TR 5 into third TR in each corner.

Resources

• Free Field of Rosebuds Pattern
• Original Rosebuds Stitch and Pattern
• My Lace Weight Crochet Scarf Project on Pinterest

I’ve attempted to recreate the pattern in U.S. terms. It’s not perfect, the stem-end corner and back-loop ridging both need some work. For this how-to, I a Lion Brand BonBon cotton fingering weight yarn. For projects, I’m using Aunt Lydia’s size 20 crochet thread.
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Chain 18

DC into the 7th chain from your hook

Chain 2, skip 2, DC into third stich. Repeat once.

Chain 2, skip 2, HDC into third stich

Chain 2, slip stitch into end.

Chain 2, turn. SC 3 into space.

Continue SC 3 into each space until you reach the end space.

SC 9 around the end.

Continue SC 3 into each space down the other side until reaching the last space. In the last space, SC 3, HDC, DC, HDC. Join to first SC with a slip stitch.

Another view of the HDC-DC-HDC at the “pointy” end of the leave, which will become the stem end.

Chain 2

Working in the back loops, SC in each stitch until just above the first DC stitch on the left.

CH 2, turn. Continuing to work in the back loops (the ones now closest to you since you’ve turned the piece over) SC into each stitch until reaching the corner.

Here, my pattern goes haywire (I’ll update when I figure it out). I tried to turn the corner by putting three stitches (HDC-DC-HDC) but my corners end up too knotty and tight. Instead, I believe it may be better to SC 2 into the previous stitch, HDC-DC-HDC into the corner stitch, 2 SC into next stitch, then continue with SCs in each stitch down the other side. It’s not clear in the original pattern – she’s either adding extra stitches or putting extra chain stitches in between stitches.

Continue SC (into back loops) to just above the last DC. CH 2 and turn.

Working in the back loops (now farthest from you), SC into each stitch.

Turn the corner at the stem end with 2 SC, HDC-DC-HDC, 2 SC into the three stitches at the corner (or whatever you deem the best technique).

Continue SC until just above the 2nd DC from the end (three stitches from the end). CH 2, turn. Continue SC around, turning the corner with the SC2-HDC-DC-HDC-SC2 sequence.

Continue to just above the 2nd DC from the end (3 stitches from the end). CH 2, turn, and continue SC to stem end, working in back loops as before.

At the stem end, slip stitch into corner (instead of doing the turn-the-corner sequence). Either tie off or chain a stem.

Here’s my finished piece. You could continue adding rows to make a longer leaf.

I added a stem by chaining 6, then slip stitching back along the chain (skipping the first stitch), and tying off at the base of the stem.

Here are a pair of leaves I worked in Aunt Lydia’s size 20 crochet thread. These are practice pieces, but I intend to make a pair of earrings, possibly with beads along the center or at the tips of the leaves.

I used yarns from my stock of Lion Brand BonBons Beach and Nature collections. These are cotton sport weight yarns that make a nice tight, clean design.

Row 1: Magic circle, ch3,  15dc into the ring. Slip stitch to join to first stitch and tie off.

The initial chain 3 counts as a double crochet stitch, giving you a total of 16 double crochet stitches in the first row.

Row 2: Join in new color. Ch3, sc1, ch1. Repeat sc1, ch1 around the ring. Slip stitch into the second chain in the initial ch3. Tie off.

The initial chain 3 counts as the first  single crochet plus chain. Each chain 1 makes a space between the single crochet stitches. Slip stitching into the second chain of the initial chain 3 leaves the space between the initial chain and the first single crochet stitch. There are a total of 16 single crochet stitches and 16 chain spaces in the second row.

Row 3: Join new color into any of the chain spaces in the previous row. Ch4, sc1 into next space, ch2, sc1 into next space. Repeat ch2 sc1 around. Slip stitch into second chain of initial ch4. Tie off.

The initial chain 4 counts as the first  single crochet plus chain 2. Each chain 2 makes a space between the single crochet stitches. Slip stitching into the second chain of the initial chain 4 leaves the chain 2 space between the initial chain and the first single crochet stitch. There are a total of 16 single crochet stitches and 16 chain spaces in the second row.

Row 4 (petals): Join in new color in any chain space in the previous row. Ch3, dc4 into same space, single crochet into next space. Repeat dc5 into a space, sc into a space around. Slip stitch to join and tie off.

The first chain 3 counts as a double crochet stitch. You should have 8 dc5 petals with a single crochet stitch between each one.

Embroidery: Crochet embroider in a contrasting color between rows one and two. Crochet embroider in another contrasting color along the top of the petals, just below the top of the stitch (so the chain-like part of the stitching is still visible).

On the petals, make sure to dip the embroidery deep in between the petals to make them stand out from each other. See this surface crochet embroidery tutorial.

Row 5 (optional): Join in a new color in the middle dc stitch in any dc5 petal. Ch2, hdc1, dc1, tr1, dc1, hdc1. Sc3 into same stitch (top of next petal). Continue hdc1, dc1, tr1, dc1, hdc1, sc3 around. Sc2 into base of initial chain (instead of sc3).

This row will add a background that makes the piece a circle. It’s not a perfect circle, and has a subtle wave to it.

From here, the piece can be continued on into a larger mandala, hat, pot holder, etc., or could be turned into a square using standard squaring and corner turning techniques. My purpose was to make the bottom of a pouch (shown below). From here, I stitched additional rows without increasing to make the straight sides of the pouch. I did the embroidery on row 1, but I did not outline the petals.