I developed this motif based on this rosebud pattern I came across. I previously shared my version of that pattern, Field of Rosebuds.

Rosebud Wreath Motif

Yarn Colors

• A: Wreath Center color: Something that contrasts nicely against your leaf color.
• B: Leaf color. A nice shade of green.
• C: Background color. Something your rosebuds will show up nicely against, like white, black, cream, or even sky blue.
• D: Rosebud color. Red, pink, maroon, gold, or any color you’d like. I think this pattern would be really interesting with a slow striping yarn so the roses gradually change color as you work.
• E: Inner Frame. A darker or lighter shade of your background or outer frame color.
• F: Outer Frame. A deep, dark color that doesn’t detract from your rosebuds.

Yarn

Use your favorite. I used Lion Brand Bon Bons sport weight cotton for this tutorial, resulting in a square approximately 5.5″. I show the results using a lace weight acrylic-wool blend at the end of this tutorial, which resulted in a 3″ square.

The Pattern

This pattern uses U.S. crochet terms.

With yarn A, chain 6 and join (or use a magic circle if you prefer.

Round 1

Chain 4. [DC into ring, CH 1] 11 times, and join to third CH of starting chain, for a total of 12 DCs and 12 CH 1 spaces.

Round 2

SC 3 into each CH 1 space. Join, and finish off color A.

Round 3

Join color B, either with a SS, CH, SC into the same stitch, or a standing SC as shown here.

Leaf Stitch

SC into the next stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 6 and SC into the same stitch.

CH 4 and SC into the same stitch.

SC into the next stitch.

Repeat [SC, leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join and finish off color B.

Round 4

Join color C into any SC immediately before a leaf stitch, with a standing SC or your favorite method.

SC, CH 1. Working behind each leaf stitch (as shown in the following photos): skip leaf stitch, SC into the next stitch. Repeat [SC, CH 1, skip leaf stitch, SC] 11 times. Join.

Round 5

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC into each SC of the previous row, SC 2 into each CH 1 space. Join. (48 SC)

Round 6

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 2, SC 2 into same space. [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (60 SC)

Round 7

CH 1 and SC into same stitch. SC 3, SC 2 into same space. [SC 4, SC 2 into same space] 11 times. Join. (72 SC)

Round 8: Rosebuds

Bring in color D (rosebud color) and “hide” it under your background color stitches. CH 1 and SC into same stitch.

SC, switching to color D by dropping color C and finishing off the stitch with color D.

The Rosebud: DC Spike Popcorn Stitch

The rosebud stitch should be centered right above the CH 1 space from round 3, centered over the leaf. Do a DC spike stitch through the center leaf and the CH 1 space: yarn over, insert hook through center leaf (the CH 6 loop), insert the hook through the CH 1 space above the leaf stitch, hook the yarn from the back, and pull it through the space and the leaf, as shown here. Make sure to hide yarn C (background color) under your stitches.

Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook, then yarn over and pull through the second two loops on the hook. Make sure you haven’t pulled the “spike” too tightly or your work will buckle.

Repeat the DC spike four more times, through the same leaf and space. Remove your hook and insert it (from the front) through the top of the first DC spike stitch, then through the loop.

Drop color D. Yarn over color C and pull it through all the loops on the hook. Snug up the stitch to close the popcorn stitch.

Skip the SC directly below the popcorn stitch. [SC into the next 5 stitches, rosebud (popcorn DC spike stitch)] 11 times. SC in the last four stitches and join. Finish off color D.

Round 9

The beginning of the round should start a the stitch just before the top of a rosebud. If it doesn’t slipstitch over to that point. CH2, skip the stitch at the top of the rosebud, SC into the stitch just after the rosebud. CH 4, skip 3, [SC, CH 1, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 11 times. Join to first stitch.

Round 10

SS into CH 1 space. CH 1, SC into same space. DC 5 into CH 4 space. [SC into CH 1 SP, DC 5 into CH 4 SP] 11 times. Finish off color C.

At this point, you have a nice round motif. You can stop here, use this as the center of a round doily or mandala, or continue on to Round 11 to square up the motif into a block.

Round 11

With color E, start the first stitch with either a CH 3 or a standing DC in any SC: [DC, CH 3, BPSC around third/center DC of the next fan, CH 3] 12 times around.

Round 12

CH 1. [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join and finish off color E.

Round 13

Join color F with a standing SC into any SC of the previous row. Work an SC into each SC, an HDC into each HDC, a DC into each DC, and TR 5 into each CH 2 corner space, Join.

Round 14

CH 3. DC into each stitch of previous row, working TR 5 into the third TR of each corner. Join and finish.

Example Motif in Lace Weight Wool Blend

With the right yarn and color scheme, this block can be quite elegant. Here I’ve chosen muted colors matching a scarf project I’m working on, with neutral beige, taupe, and very dark burgundy background and framing colors to let the gorgeous wine and moss green roses stand out.

The Pattern in Compact Form

Stitches

• LS (Leaf Stitch): SC, CH 4, SC into same stitch, CH 6, SC into same stitch, CH 4, SC into same stitch
• RB (Rosebud): DC spike stitch 5 times into the chain space three rows below (the one above the leaf stitch). Remove hook, insert through the loops of the first DC, then through the last loop, yarn over with color C, and snug up the rosebud. This stitch is basically a popcorn stitch with double crochet spike stitches.

The Pattern

This pattern assumes you know how to start a new row, either with the appropriate number of chain stitches (e.g., CH 3 as a DC) or standing stitches, and count those starting stitches appropriately.

With color A, CH 6 and join to make a loop, or start with a magic ring if you prefer.

• R1: Color A. [DC, CH] 12 times into ring. Join. (24: 12 DC, 12 CHSP)
• R2: [SC 3 into CHSP] 12 times. Join. Finish color A. (36)
• R3: Join color B into first SC in any CH3SP.  [SC, LS, SC] 12 times. Join. Finish color B. (24 SC, 12 LS)
• R4: Join color C into any SC immediately before a LS. [SC, CH, skip LS, SC] 12 times. Join. (26: 24 SC, 12 CHSP).
• R5: SC into each SC, and SC 2 into each CHSP of previous row. Join. (48)
• R6: [SC 2, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (60)
• R7: [SC 3, SC 2 into same space] 12 times. Join. (72)
• R8: Bring in color D and “hide” it under stitches of color C. With color C, SC. [Color D, RB. Color B: SC 5] 12 times, leaving off the last SC. Join. Finish color D. (72: 60 SC, 12 RB)
• R9: SS to get to stitch just before the top of the RB stitch. [SC, CH, skip over RB, SC, CH 4, skip 3] 12 times. Join. (84: 24 SC, 12 CH1SP, 12 CH4SP)
• R10: SS into CH1SP. [SC into CH1SP, DC 5 into CH4SP] 12 times. Join. Finish color C.
• R11: Join color E into any SC. [DC into SC, CH 3, BPSC around third DC, CH 3, skip 2 DC] 12 times. Join.
• R13: [SC 4 into CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, DC 4 into next CHSP, CH 2, DC 4 into next CHSP, HDC 4 into next CHSP, SC 4 into next CHSP] four times. Join. Finish color E.
• R14: Join color F into any SC of previous row. SC into each SC, HDC into each HDC, DC into each DC, TR 5 into each CH2SP. Join.
• R15: DC into each stitch of previous row, with TR 5 into third TR in each corner.

Resources

• Free Field of Rosebuds Pattern
• Original Rosebuds Stitch and Pattern
• My Lace Weight Crochet Scarf Project on Pinterest

Blooming Lace by Melinda Miller (CAL Week 6)

Eight Pointed Flower by Julie Yaeger (CAL Week 7)

This is probably my favorite CAL block so far. The flower is quite striking and has the potential for a lot of detail with frequent color changes as I’ve done. The block features some nice relief, with two raised backpost-stitched edges to create a frame (in violet) and the background worked behind four of the petals, making them stand out a bit. The backpost stitches are a bit tedious in the fine, laceweight yarn I’m using, so I may experiment with doing surface crochet in place of the backpost stitching in the future.

I plan to do this one again in perle cotton. I think a combo of rich colors with a conservative amount of black would be very striking. I’m bookmarking this one to go along with Edwardian Fantasy for some future project.

The first three blocks are from the Crafty Crochet Community Block a week 2014 CAL. Most folks are using DK weight, resulting in 12″ blocks. I’m using lace weight acrylic-wool blend, resulting in 3.5″ blocks.

Starfire by Melinda Miller (CAL Week 5) 

Basket of Berries by Melinda Miller (CAL Week 4)

Unfortunately, while trying to work the reverse popcorn stitches to the front I pulled too hard and broke a join, so this one is beginning to unravel. This is a beautiful block, so I will redo it at some point. The reverse popcorn is a bit challenging with this fine yarn, so I may do the “berries” with a regular popcorn the next time.

SmoothFox’s Starburst Flower Square (CAL Week 3)

Chocolate Box (#145 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

This square is from 200 Crochet Blocks for Blankets, Throws, and Afghans: Crochet Squares to Mix and Match (I’m using the 2005 edition with the red color scheme on the cover). The pattern is named for the color scheme in the book. I’m using different colors, so maybe I should call them “White Chocolate Box” and “Moldy Chocolate Box,”

These were all done with the lace weight acrylic-wool blend I’ve been working with for this project.

Odyssey by Letitia Sherriff

Popcorn Parade by Melinda Miller

I was really happy with out these motifs turned out. Cotton makes for nice, sharp stitching, and the colors are available are simply delicious. I purchased these from Joggles.

Edwardian Fantasy (#88 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Fudge (#69 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Willow (#189 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Catherine Wheel (#73 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Big Round (#173 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Peach Rose (#58 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

While this isn’t technically a granny square, it’s a motif block I plan to incorporate into the final project. I’ve posted the free pattern for the Field of Rosebuds stitch. I’m working with a lace weight wool-acrylic-cashmere blend. I’m wet blocking, which doesn’t work well on this yarn so the pieces tend to still be curled and warped. When I assemble the final project, I plan to steam block the pieces.

Rosebud Wreath

This is a pattern of my own design. I am currently finalizing the design and working on a photo tutorial. It uses the same general rosebud and leaf stitches as the Field of Rosebuds block.

Tricolour Square (#35 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Granny in the Middle (#117 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

I really wanted to experiment with color combos on this one, so I spent a couple days stitching these up.

The first pattern is the African Flower motif square. Made in K-town has an excellent tutorial on making an African Flower Square.

The rest are from 200 Crochet Blocks for Blankets, Throws, and Afghans: Crochet Squares to Mix and Match (I’m using the 2005 edition with the red color scheme on the color).

Primrose Square (#31 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

The flower petals are double crochet clusters, which are “puffed” on the back. I recommend turning your work after finishing the petals (i.e., when changing to yarn B) so the “puffed” side of the clusters are on the front of your work.

Gothic Square (#94 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

I don’t have words for how beautifully these turned out. As you can see from this set, color C (the center square) should be a color that contrasts strongly against the background and center flower colors. By the way, I took these shots right after blocking them, so they’re still damp, making the yarn colors appear uneven.

Traditional Granny (#18 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

I just received a few more colors in the mail, so I have a batch of traditional Granny Square type patterns queued up to experiment with color combinations.

I’m not sure why all of my squares are coming out distorted (the pattern appears to spiral to the left as it progresses).

For the first one (red flower, olive green background): after finishing the flower, I did a CH 3 from petal to petal for a total of twelve 3-CH behind the petals. I connected each 3-CH with an SC stitch, inserting my hook from the back between the last DC in one petal and the first DC in the next, inserting my hook from the front through the same spot as one of the petal slip stitches, and pulling the yarn completely through, then completing the SC stitch. For the next round, I did [DC 3 in a 3-CH twice, then DC 3, CH 3, DC 3 to form a corner], repeating this sequence three more times around the flower. From there, I simply continued adding to the square, putting a DC in each DC of the previous row, and DC 2, CH 2, DC 2 in the chain spaces at the corners.

For the second one (violet flower, beige background) I did something similar to the first, but working granny square DC/CH sequences instead of straight DC stitches.

Japanese Flower Motif Square

The next two are from 200 Crochet Blocks for Blankets, Throws, and Afghans: Crochet Squares to Mix and Match (I’m using the 2005 edition with the red color scheme on the color).

Four Patch Granny (#43 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

Slip stitching the squares together was a bit tedious, so I only made one of these.

Water Lily (#16 – 200 Crochet Blocks)

This was a pretty and fun pattern to work, but I don’t quite have the hang of working behind the petals, so my petals want to slip into the back of the square. The dark flower (nearly black) is done in a color called “Dark Navy” (or “Blue Black”). It looks nearly black to the eye, so I’m not sure I’ll be using much more of it. I’ll probably see if I can get some of the Navy Blue and Sky Blue to use.